Oris Brings The Artelier Calibre 113 Back For Good; The Squale 2001 Marina Militare For Civilians; Bell & Ross's BR-05 Chrono In A Humidor; A Gundam Themed G-SHOCK; New JLC Reverso "Or Deco" Variants

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. The Oris will take the cake today, but I’m more and more impressed by what Squale is doing.

In this issue

• Oris Brings The Artelier Calibre 113 Back For Good With Two Very Nice Variants

• Squale Opens The Elusive 2001 Marina Militare To Civilian Buyers

• Bell & Ross Packages Its BR-05 Chrono In A Humidor For The Fourth Time, This Time With S.T. Dupont

• G-SHOCK Teams Up With Mobile Suit Gundam For A RX-78-2 Themed DW-5600

• Jaeger-LeCoultre Expands The Reverso "Or Deco" With White Gold, Gemstones, And A Smaller Case

👂What’s new

1/

Oris Brings The Artelier Calibre 113 Back For Good With Two Very Nice Variants

There are watches Oris makes and forgets, and there are watches Oris keeps circling back to. The Calibre 113 is clearly in the second group. The movement launched in 2017 in an Artelier case, disappeared for a while, then reappeared last year in the Big Crown platform and again in the Year of the Fire Horse limited edition earlier this year. Now, after also refreshing the Artelier Complication and the Artelier Date 38mm, Oris is properly returning the Calibre 113 to the Artelier family as a permanent catalog entry. This is the watch the movement was always supposed to live in.

The case is stainless steel, 43mm wide, 13.1mm thick, with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. That's a big watch, and Oris isn't hiding it as they need quite a lot of space for that movement inside. The domed sapphire crystal softens the impression somewhat, but you'll know this is on your wrist. You’ll also notice that there is just a single crown on the right side, with no additional pushers, which is quite the feat as the crown adjusts day, date, and week displays. Water resistance is 50 meters.

The dial is where this gets interesting. Compared to the mint-and-pink Big Crown version, the Artelier calms things down a bit. Both the white and green options lean on softer tones, and thanks to the size of the watch, and by extension the dial, there’s plenty of space of the business calendar that includes the day, date, week of the year, as well as the power reserve, and small seconds. The date has migrated from the six o'clock position to nine, the small seconds dropped the railway-style track of the Big Crown for something planer, and the power reserve shifted from a circular indicator to an arc-shaped retrograde display. The slight asymmetry in the layout adds a touch of style without being distracting.

Inside is the hand-wound Oris Calibre 113, part of the in-house 100-series the brand introduced in 2014. It runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and draws 10 days of power reserve from a single oversized barrel. The non-linear power reserve becomes more precise as the mainspring winds down, so the last day are more accurate than the first, which is very cool. White dial is available on either a cordovan leather strap or a steel bracelet; green dial comes on leather only.

The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is available now in three references: white dial on leather strap, white dial on steel bracelet, and green dial on leather strap, each priced at CHF 6,350. See more on the Oris website.

2/

Squale Opens The Elusive 2001 Marina Militare To Civilian Buyers

The Squale 2001 was one of the more consequential dive watches of the 1960s: crown at 4 o'clock, hidden lugs, push-to-release bezel lock, 100-atmosphere water resistance. Charles Von Büren's original design was working-diver hardware before most brands were catering directly to a working diver. The Marina Militare connection came later, with a version ordered by the Italian Navy for their personnel. That version never made it to retail. Until now. Squale has reached an agreement with the Italian Navy to release 500 numbered pieces to the public, with the exact same specifications issued to Italian servicemen.

The case here is distinct from anything else in Squale's lineup. The cushion shape measures 41.5mm wide, 13mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. This case geometry exists nowhere else in the 2001 collection and was developed specifically for the Navy brief. Construction is stainless steel with a screwed caseback, and water resistance is rated to 600 meters. The bidirectional bezel uses the push-to-release locking mechanism the 2001 collection is known for, topped with a sapphire crystal insert in blue, at the Navy's request. The 60-minute scale on the bezel has luminous inserts throughout.

The dial is dark blue with a sunray brushed finish at center. Applied domed indices sit across the surface for legibility, and the Marina Militare logo is printed at 6 o'clock. White hands have SLN lume, with one exception: the minute hand is orange, which makes it the functional and visual anchor of the whole dial. That orange-on-blue combination is sharp, and the orange minute hand reads as a deliberate tactical choice rather than decoration.

Inside is the Sellita SW 200-1 in Elaboré grade, running at 4Hz with 38 hours of power reserve — a solid movement that services easily. The watch ships with a 19/16mm blue rubber strap unique to this edition, and a stainless-steel bracelet is also included in the box.

The Squale 2001 Marina Militare is limited to 500 individually numbered pieces. Price is set at €1,990. See more on the Squale website.

3/

Bell & Ross Packages Its BR-05 Chrono In A Humidor For The Fourth Time, This Time With S.T. Dupont

Bell & Ross has been doing cigar-themed limited editions since 2006, and the formula has stayed consistent: brown dials, gold tones and humidor packaging. The new BR-05 Chrono S.T. Dupont is the fourth entry in the Edición Limitada series and the first to bring in an outside partner. S.T. Dupont, the French maker of lighters and lacquerwork based in Faverges since 1924, supplies the matching lighter and cigar cutter that come with the watch. The result is 150 numbered sets aimed squarely at the overlap between watch people and cigar people, which is not a small group.

The BR-05 Chrono comes in a 42mm wide, 14.25mm thick steel case with satin and polished surfaces and a sapphire caseback. The bezel and integrated bracelet are two-tone, combining satin-finished steel with rose gold accents, and the crown is screw-down with a crown guard. Water resistance is 100 meters.

The dial gets a sunray brown finish, and the applied numerals and indices are rose gold-toned with polished and satin treatments. Hour and minute hands are skeletonized and rose gold-colored, filled with beige Super-LumiNova that glows green. The S.T. Dupont logo sits at 6 o'clock, alongside the small seconds. At 3 o'clock is the 30-minute chronograph counter; the central chronograph seconds sweeps from the middle.

Inside is Bell & Ross's BR-CAL.326, an automatic chronograph movement with 60 hours of power reserve. The watch comes on either a two-tone rose gold and steel bracelet with folding clasp, or a brown calfskin strap with a faux alligator texture and black patina finish. .

Each of the 150 pieces arrives in a box made from Macassar ebony with a Spanish cedar interior that can be converted into a humidor for 50 cigars. Flanking the watch inside the box are a S.T. Dupont Ligne 2 lighter in steel and gold with gradient brown lacquer matching the dial, and a matching cigar cutter. The set is priced at €17,900. See more on the Bell & Ross website.

4/

G-SHOCK Teams Up With Mobile Suit Gundam For A RX-78-2 Themed DW-5600

G-SHOCK's collaborative output ranges from interesting to cynically slapped-together, and it seems to me that the new DW-5600 built around Mobile Suit Gundam's RX-78-2 falls in the former category. The original Gundam series premiered in 1979, which puts it in roughly the same era as the DW-5600's own origins, and that shared vintage makes it seem that the designers had a lot of fun looking back to the early 80s.

The case is the classic DW-5600 square — resin construction, the usual G-SHOCK toughness baked in — finished in translucent material, standing in for white, and blue to reference the RX-78-2's iconic color scheme. [

In a rather rare move, a large portion of the Gundam references, happens on the straps which have the Earth Federation Space Force logos and emblems printed across them, and there's a yellow Converter System detail that mimics the technical schematics of the original mech. The caseback gets a custom engraving of a winged horse insignia — a nod to the Pegasus-class assault carriers, most famously the White Base.

Activate the backlight and you get a "SINCE 1979" motif glowing across the display, a clean way to tie the watch's subject matter to a specific moment in cultural history rather than just slapping a logo on the dial.

The Gundam DW-5600 releases June 4, 2026, exclusively through G-SHOCK Korea. I’m sure that there will be a way to get it in other countries as well. Price is as great as ever, around €125. See more on the G-Cosmo Official Online Mall.

5/

Jaeger-LeCoultre Expands The Reverso "Or Deco" With White Gold, Gemstones, And A Smaller Case

Last year's Reverso Tribute Monoface "Or Deco" in 18K pink gold, the one with the Milanese mesh bracelet, turned out to be a real hit for the company. The pairing made immediate sense: the Reverso's Art Deco lines finally had a beatufiul metal bracelet that matched the beautiful case. Jaeger-LeCoultre is now building on that momentum with five new references, spanning white gold, gemstone-set cocktail pieces, and a smaller, purer Solo Tempo variant.

The white gold "Or Deco" (ref. Q713312J) has the same 27.4mm wide, 45.6mm long, 7.56mm thick case as the pink gold original, with the full gadroon detailing intact. The Milanese mesh bracelet is also rendered in matching white gold and I assume it will look fantastic in real life. If you get to see one, because it’s limited to 200 pieces. The silvery grained dial gets black minute track and small seconds markings where the pink gold used brown, which keeps everything tonally consistent. Dauphine hands and applied gold indexes complete the package.

The three "Or Deco Cocktail" models (refs. Q713311J, Q713313J, Q713211J) swap the gadroons for 46 baguette-cut stones in blue sapphires, emeralds, or rubies respectively — rail-set in a continuous line around the case mid. It removes a defining Art Deco feature and replaces it with something more glamorous. Each is limited to 30 pieces. All five models share the same hand-wound calibre 822, beating at 21,600 vph with a 42-hour power reserve.

The fifth model, the Solo Tempo (ref. Q716216J), is the most interesting one. It drops the small seconds entirely and shrinks to 24.4mm wide by 40.1mm long, closer to the original 1930s case proportions. The fine-grained gold-toned dial, dauphine hands, and pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet give the watch a very warm look. Good news is this is part of the regular catalogue.

The white gold "Or Deco" is priced at €54,000, roughly €10,000 more than the pink gold version. The Solo Tempo comes in at €44,200, making it the most accessible entry point into the series. The Cocktail trio is priced on request, anticipated near six figures. See them all on the JLC website.

⏲️End links

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• “That was only the beginning” is a headline cliché, a promise of twists and turns that most stories don’t bear out. Lyz Lenz’s latest, for Rolling Stone, is a rare exception: a genuinely surprising tale of trolling, counter-trolling, fandom, sleuthing, and cowardice, with a cast that includes a women’s basketball team, a T-shirt store, a Boston Globe journalist, a few odious college students, and a good-hearted family that deserves, at the very least, an apology.

• Suzy Hansen reviews two of Pete Hegseth’s six—yes, six—books, and finds him to be the product of an essentially American ethos, which means the country has no choice but to ask what to do with him, and what to do with itself.

• In 1935, over 60 percent of Kentucky’s population had no access to libraries. Enter the Pack Horse Library Project, a New Deal program that put reading material, including handmade scrapbooks filled with parts of books, magazines, and pamphlets, into the hands of local residents. As Kirsten Chervenak reports for Oxford American, the project was a critical way to share information among people with limited resources living in rural areas of the state.

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I didn’t even start this video, I just had to post it here because that’s one of the most dramatic clickbait titles I’ve seen in a while. Love it!

Thanks for reading,
Vuk