New Colors On The Nomos Worldtimer; Doxa And Topper Jewelers Team Up Again; Great Eska Chronographs; More Chronos From Kuoe; A Meteorite Dial, Moon Phase Moser Streamliner; Another Special Breguet

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Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. That Kuoe will make for a really nice souvenir when I do make my way over to Japan. But in the meantime, hands up: who’s getting the Eska? I am. Also, a reminder, the holiday discount for the premium subscription started, so grab one for yourself or as a gift.

In this issue

• Nomos Gives Us The Fantastic Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer In Outdoorsy Colors

• Doxa And Topper Jewelers Team Up Once Again For A Glowing SUB 250T GMT

• Eska Expands Their Collection To Great Looking, Vintage-Inspired, And Fairly Affordable Chronographs

• Japanese Kuoe Applies Their Classic Style Onto A Trio Of Chronographs

• Moser Brings A Meteorite Dial And Moon Phase To Their Sporty Streamliner Collection

• Breguet Ends 205th Anniversary With A New Classique Répétition Minutes 7365

👂What’s new

1/

Nomos Gives Us The Fantastic Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer In Outdoorsy Colors

Easily one of my favorite watches of this yeas is the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. I was already a fan of the Club Sport from Nomos, but the addition of a really cleverly made and well integrated world timer function just put it over the top. Add to it some pretty incredible colors, and I was sold. Only problem was, a lot of people had the same idea as me, so they sold out pretty quickly. I wasn’t that upset with it because it was obvious to everyone, including Nomos, that they stumbled on a huge hit and that more colors would be coming soon. We saw that just two months ago with the introduction of the Night Navigation series, inspired by nighttime travel, and we see it now with the new Reverie and Roam models that bring more… outdoor?… colors to the collection. Boy, I can’t wait to see what else they are going to do.

The case remains the same, which means that it comes in a fully polished stainless steel case that measures 40mm wide and 9.9mm thick. Nomos is known for their extra long lugs, but on the Club, they aren’t as intense, so the watch measures 48mm from lug to lug. On top is a slightly domed sapphire crystal and water resistance is 100 meters.

The dial also keeps the most recognizable segment of the Club Sport — the combination of thick Arabic numerals and baton indices. There’s a small seconds sub-dial like on other Club watches, but this is where similarities stop. Around the periphery of the dial is a ring that displays a mix of airport codes and abbreviations of city names, with a red marking at 12 indicating which time zone is displayed, and there’s a new sub-dial at 3 o’clock which shows you your home time. The way the flyer-style GMT movement moves is just cool. Press the pusher at 2 o’clock and you advance the city ring, as well as the main hour hand of the watch, to tell the time around the world. Your local time remains fixed on the small sub-dial and you advance that by either adjusting the time through the crown or with a small inset pusher at 8 o’clock to jump just the hours. Very cool. Once again, we get great colors — the Reverie has a sunray brushed champagne dial with yellow, sand and red details, while the Roam gets the same champagne dial with blue, sand and green details.

Despite Nomos already having a world timer complication in the Zürich, this model got a brand new in-house movement at Watches and Wonders, the DUW 3202. And it’s super thin, especially for an automatic, at 4.8mm. You get 42 hours of power reserve and the movement is decorated with Glashütte ribbing, perlage, and sunburst finishes, as well as a golden globe on the rotor. While the original releases came on three-link stainless steel bracelets these two come on black and blue Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather straps.

Just like part of the initial run of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, the Reverie and Roam are also limited to 175 pieces per color. Price remains the same at €3,940. See more on the Nomos website.

2/

Doxa And Topper Jewelers Team Up Once Again For A Glowing SUB 250T GMT

I really dislike writing about sold out watches, because what’s the point, right? But sometimes, a watch is so cool, I do write about a watch you can’t get because it’s so cool you might want to look for it on the secondary market. And that’s not just what happened with the watch I’m writing about here, but it also happened with the exact same collaboration between Doxa and Topper Fine Jewelers last year. Both watches featured a similar “Great White” dial, both watches came out too late on Friday for me to include in the newsletter, and both watches sold out almost instantly. And in a market in which limited editions sell slow, that’s impressive. So, despite the fact you can’t get one, let’s dive into the Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White”.

In terms of size, this is a regular SUB 250T GMT, which sits right in between the 200T and its more capable brother, the 300T. The stainless steel case measures 40mm wide and a very perfect 10.85mm thick. But best of all, thanks to the rounded case shape, the lug-to-lug is just 42.9mm, making this a very wearable watch. On top is Doxa’s recognisable fully polished no-decompression bezel with a 60 minute scale and depth inscriptions. Water resistance is, as the name suggests, 250 meters.

While the case is unchanged, all the collaboration happens on the dial, which is now white in bright light, but takes on a ghostly blue in indirect lighting. That’s because the dial is now fully lumed, which is always a cool option. Surrounding the dial is a two-tone 24-hour scale done in dark blue and white for the day and night indicators. You get the familiar Doxa 250T handset, with the addition of an arrow-tipped GMT hand that doesn’t get in the way.

Doxa is well known for its use of Sellita movements, and this one is no different. Inside, you’ll find the SW330-2 which beats at 4Hz and has a 50 hour power reserve. The watch comes on a stainless steel beads of rice bracelet with a folding clasp that has a wetsuit extension, and you get an additional blue rubber strap with stainless steel folding clasp.

Like I said, this one sold out fast. The Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White” is limited to 100 pieces and could have been bought for $2,990. See more on the Topper Jewelers website.

3/

Eska Expands Their Collection To Great Looking, Vintage-Inspired, And Fairly Affordable Chronographs

A couple of years ago, two French enthusiasts decided to bring back the defunct brand Eska. They did so with a very cool watch that’s based on the dive watches that Eska was so well known for. Watches that were inspired by the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and featured fantastic oversized radium numerals and indices and a reverse black Bakelite bezel insert under acrylic. But that’s not all they make. Just yesterday, they introduced the Light collection which will focus on color, and the first watches in the collection is the Eska Racing Chronograph duo.

Despite the very classic looks, it has much more modern dimensions, for better or worse. The stainless steel case measures 41mm wide and has a debatable thickness. The brand lists the thickness at 12.8mm, which made me quite happy, since this is an automatic chronograph. But this is only the thickness of the case. Add to that the domed sapphire crystal, and you end up at 14.9mm, which is significant. Out back is a closed caseback with an engraving of Lyon, Eska’s home town. Water resistance is 50 meters, which is decent.

There are two models at launch — Racing Azur and Racing Sunset. While they have similar setups, it’s not just the colors that differentiate the two, there are other details as well. For example, Azur has baton indices and large numerals at 12 and 6, while Sunset has italic numerals all around, except for where the two sub-dials are — 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds at 9 o’clock. But the main difference, for sure, is the color. Racing Azur gets a vertically brushed blue dial with a double white Tachymeter track and a red central chronograph hand, while the Racing Sunset has a salmon dial with blue minute tracks, white indices and a blue chrono hand.

Inside, you’ll find a movement we don’t see that often — the SL4617, made by the Chinese powerhouse Liaoning Peacock Watch Co.. It’s based on the Valjoux 7750 architecture, beating at 4Hz, with a 45 hour power reserve. The watches come on blue leather straps with white stitching, and you get a travel pouch.

The new Eska Racing Chronograph is available now, and priced at a pretty decent €490 (and that’s, I think, with my high 25% VAT, so you might get it even cheaper). See more on the Eska website.

4/

Japanese Kuoe Applies Their Classic Style Onto A Trio Of Chronographs

While I am still adamant that we in Europe and the US still don’t know as much as we should about smaller, independent and micro Asian — and in particular Japanese — watch brands, there’s one small Japanese brand that’s not only becoming more popular in the West, it’s also not that small any more. A couple of weeks ago, Kuoe introduced a new trio to their catalogue, the Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs, the first automatic chronographs they’ve ever made (automatic being the operative word, as they made hand ones before) that still keeps the very retro, very timeless look that put Kuoe on the map.

These being automatics, you know what’s about to happen — you’re not going to like the dimensions. The cases are made out of stainless steel, measuring 37mm wide, 14.3mm thick, with a 44mm lug-to-lug. That’s a very short length that makes it fit a wider variety of wrists, but looking at pictures, I think they might have benefited for a millimeter or two extra in width to make the proportions a bit more natural. But that said, even 14.3mm is not that huge. On the side are two rectangular chronograph pushers and on top is a domed sapphire crystal, surrounded by a thin bezel. Water resistance is a decent 50 meters.

Three versions are available at launch — salmon, navy and silver. Kue is all about customization and their shop is kind of a pilgrimage place for tourists in Japan as you get to build a perfect watch for you. For example, you can have this watch with either bar indices or Breguet style numerals, depending on what you prefer. Either of those sit on a textured ring that’s surrounded by a circularly brushed rehaut with the chronograph scale. At 6 is a date aperture, with two sub dials at 3 and 9 o’clock (small seconds and 30 minute counter, respectively) that have an azurage finish. The central part of the dial is recessed and vertically brushed. The hour and minute hands are sword shaped, with a thin central chronograph hand.

Inside is the TMI caliber NE86A which is not a movement you see every day. It’s made by Seiko and it’s an automatic column-wheel chronograph movement. It beats at 4Hz and has a 45 hour power reserve. Like many Seiko movements, it’s not exactly accurate at +25/-15 seconds per day. The watches can be had on either a three row flat link bracelet or a Jubilee-style five row bracelet, both closed with clasps with toolless micro-adjust. You also get an additional leather strap.

The new Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs are available now, priced at €1,950. See more on the Kuoe website.

5/

Moser Brings A Meteorite Dial And Moon Phase To Their Sporty Streamliner Collection

In the world of high-end integrated bracelet steel sports watches that ll look very much the same, as if they were designed by the same person, you can’t exactly not appreciate the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner. It has a very cool retro-futuristic shape with some impeccable finishings that give it an otherworldly look. Their latest release, however, is actually otherworldly. This is the new Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite.

The case of this new watch uses the same case as the second-gen Streamliner and it’s still a work of art. Cushion-shaped and made out of satin brushed steel, it measures 40mm wide and 11.4mm thick. However, everyone reports that the watch wears much smaller, thanks to its lack of lugs and the fact that the case length measurement is 39mm. The side of the case is slightly recessed and framed with beautifully polished bevels. Water resistance is 120 meters.

The dial is made out meteorite, and a very well known one at that. It’s the Gibeon meteorite disc, known for its very pronounced Widmanstätten pattern. The thin slice of space rock then gets a gradient gold color that fades to black on the edges and there’s nothing else on the dial, other than the opening for the moon phase complication which is equally as simple — a gold textured surface over a black background.

Inside, you’ll find the in-house automatic HMC 270 which beats at 21,600vph and has a 72 hour power reserve. It’s also a movement with one of the most precise moon phase complications on the market, with a one-day deviation every 1,027 years. The watch comes on the signature single-link brushed metal bracelet with razor thin polished bevels.

The new H. Moser & Cie. doesn’t seem to be a limited edition and is priced at CHF 35,000, without tax. See more on the Moser website.

6/

Breguet Ends 205th Anniversary With A New Classique Répétition Minutes 7365

There are only three brands in the world (Blancpain, Favre-Leuba — but this can be contested, and Vacheron Constantin) that had the opportunity to celebrate a 250th anniversary before Breguet got to do. But they certainly didn’t have as good as a party as Breguet did. Breguet started the year with the Classique Souscription 2025 which won the prestigious GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or, and they’re ending it with the incredible Experimental 1 which uses a very cool escapement that uses magnets, completely eliminating friction as a problem. But they’re not done for the very special year for the brand. To round it off just a little bit more, they introduced the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, a new limited-edition minute repeater.

While the Experimental 1 was all about the future, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 is all about classic looks. it comes in a case made out of 18k Breguet gold, an alloy of gold, silver, copper, and palladium and it actually shrinks in size from the previous model. Now, the case measures 39mm wide and 10.8mm thick, with a number of beautiful finishes. The domed bezel on top is polished, while the midcase has a Quai de l’Horloge pattern done in hand-guilloché. On the left side is a large polished minute repeater slide and on the right side is a flat crown. Very impressively, the watch is 30 meters water resistant, quite a feat with a huge part of the case — the slider — moving to expose part of the inside.

The dial is deceptively simple. It features a very special shade of grand feu enamel called Bleu de France. This is a color often connected to the French royal court, for which Breguet often created watches. Of course, the watch gets applied Breguet numerals and Breguet hands, both made in Breguet gold.

Inside, you’ll find the new Calibre 1896. The movement beats at 21,600vph and has a 75 hour power reserve. It’s also pretty accurate at ±2 seconds per day. Magnetism and temperature variations are handled with a silicon escapement, and the entire movement is made out of Breguet gold, including the white-gold gongs for the chiming mechanism. Decorations are done by hand and are stunning: the upper half depicts the Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, and the bottom part has the Vallée de Joux, home to Breguet’s modern Manufacture. The watch comes on a French blue alligator leather strap closed with an 18k Breguet gold folding clasp engraved with the same pattern as the midcase.

The new Breguet Classique Repetition Minutes 7365 is limited to 25 pieces, priced at €328,200. See more on the Breguet website.

⏲️End links

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• A CIA asset in Iran's cyber elite contacts a journalist with drone-crash secrets and regime leaks, plotting revenge via exposés and CIA reconnection. Mohammad Tajik, tortured ex-spy, juggles double lives until his father's loyalty—or regime hit—silences him forever.​

• Amanda Fortini’s latest for T Magazine is a sweeping consideration of Generation X’s creative class and the circumstances that shaped their art. Her feature is richly textured with the voices and notions of the so-called “Slacker Generation,” from Douglas Coupland and Liz Phair to Bret Easton Ellis and Rosie Perez. The best moments come from Fortini herself, whose attachment to Gen X gives this feature its lived-in intimacy and critical heft.

• Silicon Valley's Caltrain ferries code warriors to AGI's front lines—DeepMind, OpenAI, Meta—where 20-somethings chase superintelligence amid $2.8tn datacenter bets and bioweapon fears. As breakthroughs accelerate, insiders warn of scheming AIs, job apocalypse, and extinction risks, yet the race roars on, unbraked by regulation or reality.​

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

You know there’s been some rumblings over here at expanding the scope of this newsletter, maybe introducing a bit of EDC or even spinning off another one… But every time I think about that, I think of this masterpiece of a short video.

Thanks for reading,
Vuk