Longines Revamps Conquest Heritage With Five Dial Colors; A White Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38; The SpaceOne WorldTimer; Maen's Manahattan 37mm Ultra Slim; Horizon Teams Up With Selten; New Wristmons

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. Hey, no need for an intro, just have a good weekend.

In this issue:

• Longines Revamps The Conquest Heritage With Five Dial Colors And New Bracelet

• The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date With New White Dial Is The Summer Watch For The Minimalist

• The New SpaceOne Collection Is A Very Different Take On The Worldtimer

• Maen Gives Their Smaller Manahattan 37mm An Ultra Slim Case

• Horizon Watches Teams Up With Selten To Create A Very Interesting CNC MOP Guilloché Dial

• Konstantin Chaykin Adds More Wristmons, The Joker Iron Mask and Golden Mask

👂What’s new

1/

Longines Revamps The Conquest Heritage With Five Dial Colors And New Bracelet

I really try to keep up with all the new watch releases. But even with five daily newsletter issues which feature 4-5-6 watches every day, I just can’t keep up with everything and even some big releases slip through the cracks. Such is this release we have today. Sure, it’s not groundbreaking, but large brands like Longines prefer not to shake things up — evolution, not revolution. The Longines Conquest Heritage, the vintage-inspired Conquest model, is a relatively new watch, introduced last year for the 70th anniversary of the collection. The Heritage was launched with a black and silver dials, and now we are getting three more — blue, green and a wonderful brown — in addition with a new bracelet, in both 38 and 40mm to make the Longines Conquest Heritage a more serious collection.

You have to commend Longines for sticking to their practice of releasing the same watches in different sizes, it’s a great thing. The smaller measures 38mm wide, 10.8mm thick, with a 45.6mm lug-to-lug, while the larger measures the same 10.8mm thick, 40mm wide and a 48.1mm lug-to-lug. The case remains largely unchanged from the model we got last year, meaning you get a polished finish with a brushed caseback that holds a 18K gold medallion. On top is a domed sapphire crystal and you get 50 meters of water resistance.

The dials continue the vintage-style of the case, with s sunburst brushed center and a circular-brushed track on the outside that holds the hour markers. The indexes, dauphine hands and fonts all have a very retro style to them. So far, we had a choice of a black dial with rose gold colored hardware or a silver dial with yellow gold colored hardware. The new dials now include a wonderful green with rose gold, blue with silver hardware, and, perhaps, my favorite — a brown dial with rose gold.

Inside is the L888 automatic, which beats at 25,200vph (3.5Hz) and has a 72 hour power reserve. The movement has a silicon balance spring for better resistance to magnetism. The watches are available on black or brown alligator leather straps or a redesigned stainless steel bracelet that has brushed and polished H-link. It also ditches the butterfly clasp for a deployant clasp that has toolless micro-adjustment. Nice.

The new colors of the Longines Conquest Heritage are available now, with the price being the same regardless of size. On the alligator strap it will set you back €3,250 and on the steel bracelet €3,350. See more on the Longines website.

2/

The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date With New White Dial Is The Summer Watch For The Minimalist

It’s very understandable why people love Nomos dress watches. They are simple, elegant and perfectly adaptable to a wide variety of situations. And while I like them too, if I were to get a Nomos now I would certainly go for one of their more contemporary and sporty versions. This means either the Club in a bright color or the way more sporty Ahoi. This is the perfect model for people who live an active life but don’t want to lug a dive watch around. A sort of more refined field watch, one could say, but with 200 meters of water resistance. The Ahoi came in a sometimes too-large 40mm and often too-small 36mm variant, but in 2023 Nomos redesigned the watch to keep the 36mm variant and shrink down the 40mm to a much more manageable 38mm, especially with their famously spindly lugs. Two years ago, we got the Ahoi in a sand and sky color, last year we got a blue dial, and now we’re getting the most minimal of all, the white dial.

The case of the Ahoi takes the classic cues of dress Nomos watches, including a fully round case and slim bezels, but combines it with very angular and narrow lugs, as well as a prominently angular crown guard. The case actually measures 38.5mm wide, 9.8mm or 9.9mm thick (depending on whether you get the open or closed caseback), but is still plagued with that rather long 49mm lug-to-lug. Being a sporty watch it has a pretty cool red warning ring around the stem of the crown to warn you it’s unscrewed, and like I said, you get a surprising 200 meters of water resistance.

The dial continues the minimalism Nomos is known for. It features a white silver-plated dial, the same you could find on the larger Ahoi, with a recessed and snailed small seconds display with a red hand, black Arabic numerals and a date window at 3 o’clock. The central hour and minute hands have lume inserts that are light blue in daylight and glow green at night.

Inside, no surprises, as you’ll find the in-house Neomatik DUW 6101 automatic movement. It beats at 21,600vph and has a 42 hour power reserve. It might be a good idea to get an open caseback, as the movement features the classic 3/4 Glashütte plate decorated with ribbing. The openworked rotor also features Glashütte ribbing, and there is perlage on the baseplate, blued screws and machined bevels. The watch comes on a black textile strap.

There will be no restrictions to the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Atlantic, so you can get one whenever you feel like it. The closed caseback version will set you back €3,720, while the open one is slightly more expensive at €4,020, which is about a €200 increase in price from last year’s blue model. See more on the Nomos website.

3/

The New SpaceOne Collection Is A Very Different Take On The Worldtimer

A couple of years ago, Guillaume Laidet of Nivada Grenchen, Excelsior Park and Vulcain and Théo Auffret, a young Paris-based independent watchmaker who won the Journe watchmaking award, launched SpaceOne, a brand that focuses on creating futuristic watches. They don’t release a lot of models, but what they do is pretty impressive. Their first watch, a Star Trek-like-communicator-shaped Jumping Hour smashed through their Kickstarter goal in minutes and went on to sell almost a million dollars worth of futuristic watches. Since then they’ve introduced another model, the Tellurium which took on a completely different shape, displaying time as a planetary orbit. Now, they’re introducing their third watch, the SpaceOne WorldTimer which takes the loved world timer complication and splits it up on three discs housed in an equally futuristic watch

The WorldTimer is designed by Olivier Gamiette who worked on the previous two watches, and it’s tough to put into words. It’s made out of Grade 5 titanium — it has to be a light material considering the shape and size of the watch — and measures 52.7mm wide, 15.88mm thick and with a compact length of 41.9mm, meaning that it fits within the width of most wrists, despite it’s significant width and thickness. A lot of that thickness is also reserved for the two sapphire dome one the left and bottom part of the watch, covering the city/24-hour display and the hour disc. On the right side of the case is a flat sapphire crystal and a crown integrated into the case. There are three available finishes — an uncoated titanium, or two PVD coated versions, one in blue and one in black. Water resistance is 30 meters, and I suspect you’ll need it, because good luck washing your hands without getting this wet.

There’s no traditional dial here, like most SpaceOne watches, as the team has split up the time telling and world timer functions over three discs. All the way at 3 o’clock is a minute disc, down at 6 is a hour disc and at 9, coaxial discs display a 24-hour scale and corresponding reference cities. It’s a very interesting and actually quite intuitive way to have a world timer setup.

Inside, you won’t find a high-end in-house movement. That’s mostly to keep the price low. The movement is the Soprod P024 automatic which beats at 4Hz and has a 38 hour power reserve. What is special inside is the in-house WorldTimer module designed by Théo Auffret. SpaceOne even says that the module is assembled in Paris, which is an interesting move. The watches come on rubber or textile straps that measure 22mm wide and taper down to a 18mm titanium buckle.

The new SpaceOne WorldTimer will be available for pre-order starting 26 June 2025, 4PM CET, and it will be limited to 600 pieces total. Deliveries are expected by the end of the year. Price is set at €2,700. See more on the SpaceOne website.

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Maen Gives Their Smaller Manahattan 37mm An Ultra Slim Case

Over the past almost 10 years, Maen has been making watches that have a very unique look to them. Sure, there are only so many ways to design the watch, and the square case is certainly nothing new. But with their considered approach to finishing, including deep brushing and very nice polishing on the bevels, Maen has positioned their Manhattan into a much higher price range that it actually sits in. And the key to making such a successful collection, at least part of it, is expanding it to suit as many needs as possible. That’s why we already have the Manhattan 37 Automatic, the Manhattan 39 Ultra-Thin Manual Wind, and the Manhattan 40 Automatic. Now, as expected, Maen is adding the Manhattan 37mm Ultra-Thin to the lineup.

The overall shape of the watch remains familiar from the 37mm version, with very strong inspiration coming from 1970s square watches. It measures 37mm wide, with a lug-to-lug of 47mm. Those two measurements remain unchanged. But as the name suggests, it’s slimmed down from an already thin 9.3mm to an ultra-thin 7.1mm. You still get the polished and brushed finishes, an octagonal bezel that surrounds a flat sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance.

Even better than the thinness is the new style of dial. Inspired by the rare Tuscan dials of the 1990s, it has a wonderful texture that looks very much like it would be found on a vintage AP. There are four colors to choose from — salmon, green, blue and grey — and all four dials have a small seconds display at 6 o’clock and no date aperture. The hour markers are applied and polished, with lume inserts, just like the hands.

Inside, you’ll find the familiar manual-winding Peseux 7001 movement, often used in dress watches for its compact size. The movement beats at 21,600vph and has a 42 hour power reserve. It comes in the Elaboré grade variant that’s adjusted in three positions and decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage. The watches come on three-link bracelets with butterfly closures.

The new Maen Manhattan 37mm Ultra-Thin goes on sale June 23rd, at a price of €1,079, without tax. see more on the Maen website.

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Horizon Watches Teams Up With Selten To Create A Very Interesting CNC MOP Guilloché Dial

A couple of years ago, I was blown away by a watch from Horizon Watches. It was the Pilgrim model which featured one of the best integrations of a date complication I’ve ever seen. Sure, some have done it before Horizon, but none as well. The dial of the Pilgrim features trapezoid hour markers at the cardinal positions, with Arabic numerals inside, only the 3 o’clock marker isn’t an hour marker, but rather the slickest hidden date wheel you can buy. Good on them. Since, I’ve kept an eye on Horizon, and it’s clear that they have an eye for good design. However, for their latest release, a version of their existing Nemo mode, Horizon reached out for help to Selten, a Hong Kong based microbrand that has been making some waves. Horizon’s founder Fred Bekher was deeply impressed with the CNC guilloché mother-of-pearl dials of Selten’s M1 Moonphase collection and reached out to Selten’s founder Leonardo Tsai to put the best of the two brands together. This is the new Horizon Nemo × Selten.

The new collaboration watch uses an unchanged case that Horizon uses for their Nemo collection. Made out of stainless steel, it measures 40mm wide, 11.85mm thick and has a 47mm lug-to-lug. On top is a unidirectional rotating bezel with a coined edge that has a sapphire insert with a light grey background and white lumed 60 minute scale. That surrounds a box style sapphire crystal. Water resistance is 200 meters.

But the most special part of the watch is the dial, which is the part done in pertnership with Selten. It’s a mother-of-pearl dial that has then given a flowing guilloché pattern, but not one done by hand, on a rose engine machine, or even stamped. The pattern is cut into the dial with a CNC machine, giving it a truly unique look. You have a choice of either teal or black MOP and both versions get polished indices and hands filled with SuperLuminova.

Inside, you’ll find the find the Miyota 9039 automatic which beats at 4Hz and has a 42 hour power reserve. The watch comes on a stainless teel bracelet with flat links that’s opened with a butterfly clasp. It’s rare to see a butterfly clasp have micro adjust. In fact, I can’t think of any that do. Except for Horizon. They use their MicroSlider tech, which are additional links at the end of each side of the bracelet that can be adjusted in either half or full length by pressing and sliding a spring-loaded bar. Very cool.

The Horizon Nemo × Selten is available for preorder now, with deliveries expected to begin in July. A total of 100 will be made — 50 of the teal dial and 50 of the black dial — with a price of $800. See more on the Horizon website.

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Konstantin Chaykin Adds More Wristmons, The Joker Iron Mask and Golden Mask

Just the other day, I wrote about a release that involved the legendary Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. It was another collaboration between him and Louis Erard, which is one of my favorite collab series in the watch world, as it brings Chaykin’s incredible creativity when designing a watch to a much more accessible price point. However, that wasn’t the only Chaykin release these days, as he has updated his Wristmons collection, the Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. Technically, the concepts for these skeletonized dial watches were shown almost two years ago, but production delays meant that the production models are ready only now.

Chaykin watches are rarely about the case, but they can be quite interesting. This one measures 40mm wide and 12.78mm thick and is made out of stainless steel. Surrounding the domed sapphire crystal is the signature poker-themed decorated bezel, thin and featuring the five suits in a deck of cards, surrounded by screws. There are two crowns, symmetrically distributed to 3 and 9 o’clock.

These Wristmons, and especially the Joker series, design the entire dial around the face of a fictional character. But in these, a lot of the dial is cut out to give you a view of the movement. But even as such, Chaykin keeps recognizable, but functional, facial features. In the upper half of the dial are two apertures for hours and minutes, with blued steel rings set inside them, rotating to indicate the time. Below that is a curved track for the days of the week, indicated by a red square. While the regular Jokers use mostly color to convey facial features, the open-worked nature of the dial works very well to make it look like a face — bridges above the hour and minute rings act as eyebrows, while at the centre you’ll find a ruby that acts a s nose. The difference between the two models, the Golden and Iron Mask is in the color of the bridges — gold plated and rhodium plated, respectively.

Inside, you’ll find the calibre K.09-1, which is baed on an obviously heavily modified La Joux-Perret’s G200 automatic. It beats at 4Hz and has a 68 hour power reserve. It’s wound with a skeletonised rotor that’s either gold or rhodium plated, depending on the version. Both versions, however, come with black alligator straps.

The new Konstantin Chaykin Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask are limited production models, not limited in total numbers but rather in production capacity per year. About 100 of each will be made each year. Price is set at CHF 40,800. See more on the Konstantin Chaykin website.

⏲️Wait a minute

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• Nina Gladitz dedicated her life to proving the Triumph of the Will director’s complicity with the horrors of Nazism. In the end, she succeeded – but at a cost.

• In 1990, Miguel Helft was part of a six-person expedition climbing Lenin Peak, a 23,406-foot mountain that lies on the Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border. Needing time to acclimatize to the thin mountain air, his group leader opted to stop short of busy Camp 2 so that his climbers could rest and recharge. They had no idea that this seemingly arbitrary decision would be the difference between life and death on what is believed to be the deadliest day in mountaineering history.

• From Saturday-afternoon telecasts to Kingpin to upscale experiences like Bowlmor Lanes, bowling’s cultural standing has been anything but consistent over the past few decades. One thing is clear: Anyone who’s investing in bowling is doing it with private-equity money. What that means in practice animates Dave Denison’s inquiry; a longtime bowler himself, Denison drives around New England to see what the state of the industry really is, and where it’s headed. Bowling usually loves strikes, but in this case it has two strikes against it.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

I went to school for cinema studies, which includes learning a lot about film history. There are so many interesting stories in Hollywood and this dude covers a couple of them very succinctly. A good view.

Thanks for reading,
Vuk