Farer's GMT Bezels Get Intricate Guilloché Dials; UG's Fuchs Wheel Noramis Date; Dennison And Collectability Team Up; Moser's Cool Chrono; JLC Brings the Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Back

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. I’ve heard someone say that Dennison is getting repetitive, but I just can’t stop loving their releases. I love how these two watches give you two different feels despite being basically the same thing.

In this issue

• Farer's New GMT Bezel Nevada Watches Get Intricate Guilloché Dials In Pine Green And Mocha Brown

• Union Glashütte Brings Back The Fuchs Wheel Noramis Date In Black PVD For The Petro Surf 2026

• Dennison And Collectability Team Up Again To Add An Oblique Angle to the ALD Formula

• H. Moser & Cie. Brings The AgenGraphe Flyback Chronograph To The Endeavour With Dual Time And Date

• Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings the Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Back in Platinum

👂What’s new

1/

Farer's New GMT Bezel Nevada Watches Get Intricate Guilloché Dials In Pine Green And Mocha Brown

Farer has been doing things with color that most Swiss houses with ten times the budget can't (or won’t) match. And while I think they are at their best when they do unconventional colors and combinations, this new duo from the GMT Bezel collection uses more traditional colors. But it’s still a fantastic look, one helped by a new barleycorn pattern, formed from intersecting spiraling lines, on the dial. These are the new Farer GMT Bezel Nevada Pine and Nevada Mocha.

The case remains unchanged, but available in two sizes. The Nevada Pine comes in the 40mm wide and 13mm thick case, while the Nevada Mocha comes in the 38mm wide and 12.5mm thick. Both are made out of stainless steel, with a screw-down crown and sapphire crystals on top and bottom. Water resistance is 200 meters. The bidirectional 24-hour bezel is split dark green and light green/dark brown and light brown to distinguish day from night hours at a glance.

On the Nevada Pine, the guilloché dial has a fumé gradient from dark emerald at the edges through to a brighter pine green at the center, and the hands have that same green with a matte finish. The 24-hour GMT hand has an orange tip for contrast. The Nevada Mocha has the same dark-to-light gradient across the guilloché, but now in brown, and light brown accents on the hands and bezel. The GMT hand here is blue rather than orange.

Both watches have the Sellita calibre SW330-2 Top Grade inside. The "Top Grade" designation means it's been tested in five positions for better accuracy than the standard spec. Power reserve is 56 hours. The exhibition caseback shows the skeletonized custom Farer rotor with perlage finishing underneath. Straps available are leather, suede, and rubber, with an optional steel bracelet.

The Farer GMT Bezel Nevada Pine and Nevada Mocha are €1,595 on strap or €1,615 with the steel bracelet. See more on the Farer website.

2/

Union Glashütte Has A New Fuchs Wheel Noramis Date In Black PVD For The Petro Surf 2026

The Fuchs wheel is one of those designs that needs no introduction in certain circles. The five-spoke alloy that came on early 911s, Beetles, and beach buggies, becoming an absolute legend in the car world that’s emulated to this day. It’s also served as inspiration for Union Glashütte for a few years now, appearing on the Noramis Date platform as a recurring motif. We last saw a version of it on the dial of the Deutschland Klassik in 2023, I think. The new Petro Surf 2026 returns to the same design idea, this time in an all-black color scheme that leans harder into the outlaw end of the aircooled spectrum. Union Glashütte is the official partner of the Petro Surf Festival on Sylt — a June event that mashes air-cooled sports cars with Californian surf culture — and the watch is their calling card for the occasion.

The Noramis Date case is well-established. Steel, fully polished, 40mm wide and just over 10mm thick, with a raised bezel and a box-shaped sapphire crystal. It wears lighter on the wrist than the specs suggest. You get a decent 100 meters of water resistance. The case is paired with a black leather strap and a double-folding clasp.

The dial is the homage to the five-spoke Fuchs wheels, as the structure rises from the matte black background in three dimensions, the spokes themselves finished in black PVD. Screw-head details at the spoke ends recall wheel nuts. Two-tone hands sweep across the dial, and a date window at 6 o'clock sits on a black disc so it doesn't interrupt the mood.

Inside is the Calibre UNG-07.S1, a modified ETA 2892 base fitted with a silicon balance spring. The movement beats at 3.5Hz, and you get a 60-hour power reserve.

The Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026 is limited to 200 pieces and priced at €2,780. See more on the Union Glashütte website.

3/

Dennison And Collectability Team Up Again To Add An Oblique Angle to the ALD Formula

Last year's Dennison x Collectability collaboration gave the British brand its most distinctive dial yet, one that elevated it to true dress watch status, before they went wild with the dual time stone dials. This year, Dennison is teaming up with the same vintage watch platform founded by Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon, bringing back the stepped dial, but also adding a second mode. This is the new Oblique Enigma and Oblique Vector.

The Oblique measures 35mm long and 33.65mm wide, which means it's almost as wide as it is long. At 6.05mm thick it wears super nice, and that fully polished cushion case will fit under any shirt cuff. Sapphire crystal up front, water resistance to 30 meters. These two get a new bezel, but thanks to the pebble-shape of the case, the bezel looks fully integrated and makes it look like part of the case. And that bezel has an asymmetric shape, almost a trapezoid, that frames the dial.

And that dial continues the slanted diamond shape of the bezel, at least on the Enigma. It features two nested trapezoid sectors, the outer green sunburst and an inner blue sunburst are divided by a diamond-cut bevel, with either silver or gold details. A more subdued version of the dial appears on the Vectors which takes the same asymmetric outline and strips it back to a single sunburst color matched to the case, with 12 printed lines running across the surface in a sunray pattern. All branding is relegated to the snap-on caseback, keeping the dial completely uncluttered.

Both run on the Ronda quartz calibre 1062, a movement that has a six-year battery life. Both come on an embossed leather strap with a cushion-shaped buckle that echoes the case.

The Dennison + Collectability Oblique Enigma and Oblique Vector are available for pre-order from May 27th through June 3rd only, directly through Dennison. Price is set at €675 for all four variants. See more on the Dennison website.

4/

H. Moser & Cie. Brings The AgenGraphe Flyback Chronograph To The Endeavour With Dual Time And Date

The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph from 2020 was the watch that put Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and his Geneva complications house Agenhor on the radar for a lot of collectors who hadn't previously been paying attention. The AgenGraphe — Agenhor's proprietary column-wheel chronograph architecture, built around a patented micro-tooth horizontal clutch — was interesting enough that Moser's parent company MELB took a minority stake in Agenhor in 2023. Now Moser is taking the architecture out of the Streamliner and dropping it into the Endeavour, their more traditionally proportioned dress collection, with a couple of very interesting and well integrated additions.

The Endeavour Flyback comes in a polished stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide and 13.2mm thick. Curved lugs, clean surfaces and the proportional language of the Endeavour collection is everything you would expect from an Endeavour watch. But since this is a chronograph, you get pushers at 10 and 2 o'clock, rectangular and rounded respectively. The screw-down crown sits at 4 o'clock, engraved with the Moser M. Sapphire crystals sit front and back, and water resistance is 30 meters.

The dial has two distinct sectors: a turquoise fumé outer ring and a Blackor fumé central disc, both with sunburst finishing. All chronograph hands are centralized. A red hand shows elapsed seconds, while a rhodium-plated hand tracks elapsed minutes against a white peripheral track, broken at 6 o'clock by the date window. The black flange holds a tachymeter scale. The second time zone is indicated on the central disc with a white Super-LumiNova arrow. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, also lumed, complete the package.

The new hand-wound calibre HMC 730, developed with Agenhor specifically for the Endeavour, starts from the same conceptual foundation as the Streamliner's automatic HMC 902 but removes the rotor to free up the space needed for the dual time and date modules. The AgenGraphe fundamentals remain: column wheel control, the micro-tooth horizontal clutch that minimizes hand jumping at start, and a retrograde snail cam for the minute counter that produces an instantaneous jump rather than a creep. Power reserve is 72 hours from twin barrels and the movement runs at 21,600vph. There’s also a power reserve indicator visible on the movement side. The finishing under the caseback is anthracite with perlage, Moser double stripes, and partially skeletonized bridges. The watch comes on a grey nubuck-finished alligator strap with a steel pin buckle.

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date is priced at CHF 74,500, including taxes. See more on the Moser website.

5/

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings the Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Back in Platinum

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Duomètre line has always been where JLC demonstrates what having a fully vertical manufacture can bring to a brand. The concept, patented in 2007, splits the movement into two independent gear trains sharing a single regulating organ — one powering timekeeping and calendar functions, the other feeding the escapement directly. It solved an actual problem, as complications that consume varying amounts of energy no longer interfere with the precision of the time display. The Heliotourbillon Perpetual, first released in 2024, pairs that architecture with a triple-axis tourbillon and a full perpetual calendar. Now, JLC is bringing that model back in a solid platinum case and bracelet, and a monochromatic look.

The case is 44mm wide and 14.7mm thick, fully made out of platinum, with 40 components forming its rounded profile. Jaeger describes the shape as a contemporary take on 19th-century savonette pocket watches. Finishing mixes polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces, and the lugs have cutouts on the sides. On top is a sapphire crystal, but there’s also a sapphire window on the left side of the case that gives you a great look of the tourbillon. It’s a very complex construction, so the 30 meter water resistance makes sense.

The dial is divided into two distinct zones. On the open left side: a deep blue lacquered starry sky with a 20-second track, three red arrow pointers on the tourbillon cage marking its rotation, and a curved platinum bridge arcing across like a stage curtain separating the regulator from the calendar side. On the closed grey right: a rounded triangular arrangement of calendar functions, with the large date window at 3 o'clock sitting at the apex and the day/moon phase and month/year subdials forming the base. Two power reserve indicators sit above and below the central time display. Jaeger highlights the final digit in red during leap years.

Inside is the Calibre 388, a manually wound movement with the twin-barrel Duomètre architecture and 163-component titanium tourbillon that rotates on three axes. Two of the cages complete a rotation every 30 seconds; the third every minute. The tourbillon runs on ceramic ball bearings to reduce friction and weighs under 0.7 grams total. The caseback opens to show both barrels and Geneva-stripe finishing on the bridges. The watch comes on a new five-row platinum bracelet.

The Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is a limited edition of 20 pieces. Price is upon request. See more on the JLC website.

⏲️End links

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• By now, plant-based meat and milk alternatives are so common as to be unremarkable, but the same can’t be said for the third pillar of vegan faux-food engineering: cheese. Much of that, as Sam Colbert explains, has to do with how casein works; it simply melts and stretches in a way that resists emulation. That doesn’t stop food scientists from trying, though, and Colbert tours the labs (and cautionary tales) of some of those companies trying to create the first viable mozza-really?

• Esperanto is the rare constructed language that has a sizable footprint and speaking population. But Katie Thornton’s trip to the 110th annual World Esperanto Congress is eye opening. This might just be the most wholesome, hopeful piece you read all week.

• In this New York Times investigation, Sarah Kliff and Margot Sanger-Katz report on how autism therapy in the US has exploded into a multi-billion-dollar business, driven by rising diagnoses, private equity investment, and expanded Medicaid coverage—with little regulatory oversight. Kliff and Sanger-Katz focus on Compleat Kidz, a chain of ABA-therapy clinics in North Carolina, and spoke to 14 former employees who said its for-profit model harms children. Kliff and Sanger-Katz also uncover a dozen reports of child abuse at Compleat Kidz locations; their reporting makes clear that this company is just one example in a growing industry.

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