Doxa Brings Back The Diving Chrono; Hanhart's Firefighting Watch Is Their Diver; ochs und junior's Brushed Titanium Annual Calendar; Chopard Returns To Raticosa Pass; Urwerk Sends Off The UR-120

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In this issue

• Doxa Brings Back the Diving Chronograph With The SUB 200 T.Graph II

• Hanhart Believes The Best Firefighting Watch Just Might Be Their Already Cool Diver

• ochs und junior Strips The Brushed Titanium Annual Calendar Down To Its Basics

• Chopard Returns to the Raticosa Pass With a Glass-Box Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa

• Urwerk Sends Off The UR-120 With A Blue-And-Gold Final Edition

👂What’s new

1/

Doxa Brings Back the Diving Chronograph With The SUB 200 T.Graph II

In 1969, while everyone else was watching the moon landing or getting muddy at Woodstock, Doxa was busy creating their first diving chronograph. It wasn’t the first diving chrono, not the most expensive or perhaps even not the most capable. But the SUB 200 T.Graph quickly became a cult classic. How popular these watches was evident in how quickly the 2019 anniversary reissue sold out quickly, and good luck getting one these days for decent money. Tankfuly, Doxa just gave us the SUB 200 T.Graph II, a permanent dive chrono in their lineup.

The case is made out of stainless steel, 42mm wide and 14.6mm thick, which shaves a bit more than a hair off the original's 43mm by 15.15mm. The cushion case is still pure Doxa, which means it looks huge in photos but actually wears smaller than the numbers would suggest. Water resistance is 200 meters with a screw-down crown and screw-in caseback, and the unidirectional steel bezel clicks with no slop, as you would expect from a Doxa.

The dial layout is exactly the no-nonsense arrangement the brand is famous for: printed indices packed with Super-LumiNova, a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a running seconds counter at 9, and a date at 6. Four colors are available at launch. Three are heritage Doxa: Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, and Searambler sunburst silver, and the fourth is Caribbean blue, a near-navy that's been on the standard SUB line for years and looks great here.

Inside is the Sellita SW510, an automatic running at 28,800vph with about 56 hours of reserve, built on the Valjoux 7750 architecture. You get a choice of the beads-of-rice bracelet or a rubber strap in black or matched color, both with folding clasps and wetsuit extensions, and the price gap between them is only about €40.

The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II costs €3,950 on rubber and €3,990 on the bracelet. That's a crowded price bracket with some good competition, but Doxa has a rabid fan base. The watches go on sale late June 2026. See more on the Doxa website.

2/

Hanhart Believes The Best Firefighting Watch Just Might Be Their Already Cool Diver

Hanhart has spent decades making pilot's chronographs, so a tool watch aimed at fire crews comes as a bit of a left turn. The move is even more interesting when you consider the fact that they base this new Thermosphere watch on their very cool Aquasphere diver. It is a clever repurposing: the same countdown logic that times a dive works just as well counting down a cylinder of air. Built with the Baden-Württemberg State Firefighters Association and limited to 112 pieces, the number nods to Europe's emergency line.

The case is 42mm wide and 12.95mm thick in satin and polished steel, with a lug-to-lug of 49mm that keeps it wearable despite the tool-watch heft. A convex sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating sits on top, the case back screws down, and water resistance is rated to 300 meters. Each piece is individually numbered from 001/112.

The dial is dark blue with yellow, red, and blue accents pulled from fire-service visual language, and the contrast does real work for legibility. The bezel carries triangular Super-LumiNova markers set to breathing-apparatus checkpoints, with the prominent minute hand designed for fast reading when you can see almost nothing. The "1" in the 112 at twelve o'clock is picked out in a contrasting color, and the Baden-Württemberg flame-and-lion emblem appears on both dial and case back.

Inside is either a Sellita SW 200-1 or a Soprod P024, both running at 28,800 vph with 25 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve, regulated by Hanhart to 0 to +8 seconds per day. It ships on the elastic Hookstrap textile band that adjusts fast and fits over protective gear, with a steel bracelet or rubber strap as alternatives.

The Hanhart Thermosphere Limited Edition is €1,540 including tax, limited to 112 pieces. See more on the Hanhart website.

3/

ochs und junior Strips The Brushed Titanium Annual Calendar Down To Its Basics

ochs und junior builds watches around Ludwig Oechslin's conviction that a complication should be as simple as the math allows, and the anno sandblasted renders that idea in titanium. It's an annual calendar, so it tracks the date, weekday, and month and only needs correcting once a year, on March 1st. What sets it apart from every other annual calendar is how little is happening inside to make that work. Oechslin manages the whole thing on a handful of custom parts, with the calendar information printed directly on the functional components rather than on separate discs.

The case is made out of brushed grade 5 titanium in either 39mm or 42mm, and at 11mm thick including the crystal it’s pretty flat for an annual calendar. On top is a sapphire crystal, on the side is a screw-down titanium crown that Oechslin designed himself, and water resistance is 100 meters.

The dial is rhodium-plated and sandblasted, and instead of hands sweeping over printed text, everything is indicated with holes. Thirty-one holes around the center mark the date, with the 10-minute track markings as reference points. Seven holes right underneath the central pinion show the weekday, twelve above the pinion show the month, and a pair of dots tells you day from night. You can even choose which weekday sits at the top. The sandblasted surface shifts with the light, and a yellow gold leaf seconds hand is the one major pop of color.

The movement is an ETA calibre 2824-2 with a 38-hour power reserve, with the super simple calendar mechanism built on top of it. Not only is it a super-simple addition to a common workhorse movement, you can adjust everything through the crown, with no need for additional pushers. The strap is black Ecopell leather, handmade by Sabina Brägger and offered in four sizes.

The anno sandblasted is priced at CHF 5,177 before tax, available now from ochs und junior.

4/

Chopard Returns to the Raticosa Pass With a Glass-Box Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa

Chopard has been the Mille Miglia's timekeeper since 1988, and the collection has spun off enough limited editions over the years to fill a small garage. The Raticosa ones have always been among the more interesting ones. Named for the mountain pass between Florence and Bologna where Enzo Ferrari claimed the race was actually won, this latest version leans hard into vintage racing-chronograph cues.

The case is 40.5mm wide and 12.88mm thick, made from Chopard's in-house Lucent Steel, an 80% recycled alloy the brand has used across its entire steel catalog since 2023. On top is a beautiful, vintage-inspired, glass-box sapphire crystal. Knurled pushers, a crown engraved with a steering wheel, and welded lugs round out the package. Water resistance is modest 50 meters, which is fine for what this is. It could be a bit better

The dial is eggshell with a matte varnish finish, an eggshell railway track with black transfers, and beige Super-LumiNova markers. Rhodium-plated baton hands tell the time, and there's a red-tipped central chronograph seconds hand for a bit of Mille Miglia color. Small seconds sit at 3, the date tucks between 4 and 5, a 12-hour counter lives at 6, and the 30-minute counter is at 9. It's a busy but mostly legible layout.

Inside is a self-winding chronograph beating at 28,800vph with a 54-hour power reserve, COSC chronometer-certified. The closed caseback gets an engraved titanium insert built like a postcard from the pass, complete with a car and roadside spectators. The watch comes on a brown perforated calfskin strap with a Lucent Steel pin buckle.

The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa, ref. 168619-3020, is priced at €11,100. See more on the Chopard website.

5/

Urwerk Sends Off The UR-120 With A Blue-And-Gold Final Edition

Urwerk does not let a collection retire quietly. The farewells tend to be among the best versions a model ever sees, and recent send-offs like the UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue and the UR-220 RG proved that point. Now it's the UR-120's turn. The model that fans call the "Spock" for its split, rotating hour blocks first introduced in 2022 in titanium and steel, bowing out of the collection as the Blue Planet.

You still get the 47mm by 44mm case with its shaped crystal, integrated strap connections, and the swivelling crown cover at noon. The surface treatment is new, sandblasted steel with a blue PVD coating. The gold hinge on the crown cover is the first hint of where this is going. Water resistance is 30 meters.

The familiar satellite display, with its two-part hour markers splitting, rotating, rejoining and sliding along the arched minute track over each hour, gets a blue finish set against 24k-gold plating on the functional elements. Everything is lumed, so the choreography stays legible in the dark.

Driving all of it is the automatic Calibre UR-20.01 with Urwerk's Windfänger airscrew governing the rotor, running at 28,800vph with 48 hours of power reserve. The watch ships on a blue Cordura-textured calfskin strap with a satin-brushed steel pin buckle.

The Urwerk UR-120 Blue Planet is limited to 20 pieces at CHF 115,000 without taxes. See more on the Urwerk website.

⏲️End links

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• A gunshot cracks a quiet San Antonio afternoon, and within minutes one of the Southwest’s richest men lies bleeding on a bungalow floor. Three women orbit the crime, but the story refuses to settle: was it self-defense, scandal, or something carefully buried by powerful friends? What really happened inside the Hunstock house that day?

• moonlit prison cell, a pen scratching across glued-together scraps of paper, and a manuscript destined to outlive the men who traded it for profit. The story swerves from obscenity to auction rooms to a spectacular financial collapse, asking how a treasure can become a trap. Gérard Lhéritier lured investors by selling shares in literary treasures. When suspicions grew, he was exposed as the architect of a massive fraud. This is the French mastermind behind a €1bn Ponzi scheme.

• A sentry box tips in a Boston street, and boys scatter as empire trembles at their game. From snowballs to cannon fire, play turns unruly, even dangerous, shaping a nation’s appetite for risk, spectacle, and defiance. How did rough, improvised games become the DNA of American sports—and what do they reveal about the country itself?

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

I’m not exactly a Jacob Elordi fan, and Ridley Scott has been trailing downwards in his later years, but I’ll admit this looks pretty interesting.

Thanks for reading,
Vuk