Baltic Evolves The Scalegraph Into The Permanent Collection; TAG Teams Up With Goodwood; Maurice Lacroix Pays Tribute To Home Village; Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Goes Steel; A Sandy De Bethune

Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. I was just about to write “have a nice weekend” when I realized that it’s only Thursday. lt’s so hot outside I just want the weekend to happen now.

In this issue

• Baltic Evolves The Scalegraph Cronograph With Screw-Down Pushers And 100 Meters Of Water Resistance

• TAG Heuer Teams Up With The Goodwood Festival Of Speed For A Green Formula 1 Chronograph

• Maurice Lacroix Pays Tribute To Its Home Village With The 1975 Legacy Signed Saignelégier

• The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Goes Steel With A Trio Of Coloured Moons

• De Bethune's Smallest DB25 Gets a Dial That Ripples Like Sand

👂What’s new

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Baltic Evolves The Scalegraph Cronograph With Screw-Down Pushers And 100 Meters Of Water Resistance

The Scalegraph was Baltic's first chronograph with a slide-rule-adjacent twist, and a panda-flavored throwback that leaned hard on mid-century charm. The problem with throwbacks is they tend to skip the parts of vintage watches we don't actually miss, like 30 meters of water resistance and pushers you're afraid to touch near a sink. Baltic has gone back to the Scalegraph and fixed exactly that. This new version keeps the look and finally makes it a watch you can wear without panicking about it.

The 316L steel case stays unchanged in size at 39.5mm wide but has been reworked around the edges. The lugs are wider now, the angles sharper, and the tops of the lugs get vertical brushing where the old version had circular finishing. It’s 14.1mm thick (11.3mm without the double-domed sapphire on top), with a lug-to-lug of 47mm and 20mm wide lugs. Screw-down pushers and a redesigned case bring water resistance to 100 meters.

Three dials are available: champagne, blue, and grey. The champagne and grey get a metallic finish, the blue a glossy one, and all three are paired with a matching brushed aluminium tachymeter bezel. The three subdials are done in off-white azurage guilloché, framed by polished rings. Polished steel dauphine hands and a round index on the minute track are filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9, and remain unchanged from previous versions.

Inside is the Sellita SW510-M, a hand-wound chronograph movement beating at 4Hz with 63 hours of power reserve. Three strap options are available: an Italian calf leather strap, a beads-of-rice bracelet, or a flat-link bracelet.

The Scalegraph starts at €1,640 on leather and €1,700 on either bracelet. Those are good prices, but they are without tax. Sales start June 29, 2026. See more on the Baltic website.

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TAG Heuer Teams Up With The Goodwood Festival Of Speed For A Green Formula 1 Chronograph

TAG Heuer has built a whole tradition out of tying its Formula 1 line to motorsport events, and the latest is a UK-exclusive chronograph made for the 2026 Goodwood Festival of Speed. Goodwood's hillclimb is one of those events watch brands love to attach themselves to, but for TAG Heuer it’s always been kind of an effortless thing to show up at the legendary hill race. That said, I would have loved to see just a bit more effort for this limited edition.

The case is 44mm wide stainless steel, which is a lot of watch, but it’s kind of always worked for me on the F1 series. A fixed green ceramic bezel has an oversized tachymeter scale, with a red-outlined shield marker at 12 o'clock. Those red accents repeat on the rings around the crown and the start/stop pusher at 2 o'clock. On top is a sapphire crystal and water resistance is 200 meters.

The dial is done in British Racing Green with a sunray-brushed finish. White chronograph sub-dials have azurage texture, and the layout is a vertical tricompax: 30-minute counter at 12, 12-hour counter at 6, small seconds at 9, with a date window at 3. All three chronograph hands are red, and the central seconds hand has a skeletonized counterweight shaped like the TAG Heuer shield. Look closely and you’ll notice that the 39-second marker on the perimeter is done in red to mark Goodwood's standing hillclimb record of 39.08 seconds, set in 2022 by Max Chilton in the absolutely bonkers McMurtry Spéirling.

Inside is the Calibre 16, TAG Heuer's automatic chronograph built on a Sellita base, beating at 4Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. The solid caseback is engraved with a Goodwood motif and the "One of 500" inscription. It comes on a stainless steel three-link bracelet with a folding clasp.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Goodwood Festival of Speed is limited to 500 pieces and available only in the UK. Price is set at £4,250. See more on the TAG Heuer website.

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Maurice Lacroix Pays Tribute To Its Home Village With The 1975 Legacy Signed Saignelégier

Maurice Lacroix has been based in Saignelégier, in the Swiss Jura, since the mid-1970s, and the brand keeps finding ways to remind you of that. The two new 1975 Legacy limited editions they just put out mark June 23rd, the date the Canton of Jura voted for independence in 1974, and they lean hard into local identity.

The case is borrowed from the Masterpiece line: 39mm wide, a slim 10.2mm thick, in stainless steel with satin-brushed surfaces on top and vertical brushing on the flanks. A box-style sapphire crystal rises over the dial, which is the kind of vintage detail that does a lot of work here. The screws holding the closed caseback are shaped like little Swiss crosses, which is either charming or a bit much depending on your tolerance for theme. The caseback engraving shows the Marché-Concours Hall with three Franches-Montagnes horses, a nod to the region's annual equestrian festival. Water resistance is 50 meters.

There are two dials available, one powder silver and one slate grey, carry the "Vagues du Jura" motif, a wave pattern developed with a local artisan as the brand's own answer to Geneva stripes. The small seconds at 6 o'clock is machine-guilloché with a pleated effect, and the faceted dauphine hands and trapezoid indices are finished in 4N gold tone. There's a date at 3 o'clock.

Inside is the automatic ML158, beating at 4Hz with a 60-hour power reserve, and a rotor decorated with Geneva stripes. The watch comes on a black alligator-style leather strap with a 4N gold-toned "M" on the one of the straps.

Both references retail for CHF 1,950 and are limited to 500 pieces each. The watches don’t seem to be on the ML website just yet, but I assume they will be soon.

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The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Goes Steel With A Trio Of Coloured Moons

Arnold & Son has spent more than a decade treating the moon-phase as the main event rather than a corner complication, and I love them for it. The new "Colours of the Moon" trio takes that familiar oversized moon and runs it through three rare lunar phenomena: a Blue Moon, a Golden Moon, and a Red Moon, the last named for the reddish cast of a total lunar eclipse. Additionally, after years of precious-metal cases, they dropped the high-end materials and opted for a steel case, making them at least somewhat attainable.

The steel case measures 41.5mm wide and 11.67mm thick, polished all over, with a domed sapphire crystal and AR coating up top and a display back. Sure, it’s kind of a chunky watch for what appears to be a dress watch, but you want a wide aperture for that incredible dial. Water resistance is 30 meters.

The moon dominates the upper half of the dial, rendered in coloured mother-of-pearl with Super-LumiNova hidden beneath the disc so it glows against the night sky in the dark. The surrounding sky is also mother-of-pearl, coloured through a controlled PVD process in black, blue, or green depending on the model, which keeps the iridescence of the natural material while deepening the colour. Hand-painted constellations, Cassiopeia and Ursa Major, sit in the sky in luminescent material.

Inside is the in-house hand-wound calibre A&S1512, running at 3Hz with a 90-hour power reserve. The finishing is the traditional spread: radiating Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, circular graining, blued screws. There's a second moon-phase indication on the movement side for setting the complication precisely, which is one of the best tricks in the industry. Each version comes on a matching alligator strap.

Each reference is limited to 18 pieces, priced at CHF 21,100 including VAT. See more on the Arnold & Son website.

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De Bethune's Smallest DB25 Gets a Dial That Ripples Like Sand

You can easily spot a De Bethune from across a room. The brand built its identity on heat-treated titanium, wild articulating lugs and a loose, rippling guilloché. The DB25 has been the classical counterweight to the futuristic DB28 that put the brand on the map, and the DB25xs is the smaller version of that watch. We’ve seen it recently in a couple of colors, and this Sand Winds takes on a dune-like look.

The case measures 40.6mm wide and just 8.8mm thick, made out of titanium, with an all-polished finish. The signature openworked lugs taper to bullet-shaped tips. It’s quite a statement of a case. Sapphire crystals are used front and back. You get 30 meters of water resistance, but come on…

The dial is the main attraction. It’s made out of titanium, and there is no color used here. Instead, heat oxidation turns the titanium a warm yellow, and the guilloché runs across it in irregular undulating lines like wind moving over dunes. Hand-applied white gold stars are scattered across the surface, the rounded chapter ring has Arabic numerals and polished spherical markers, and the heat-treated Breguet-style hands have open tips in a matching warm brown.

Inside is the in-house calibre DB2005, a hand-wound movement running at 4Hz with a six-day power reserve from a self-regulating twin barrel system. And it’s quite something to look at: a large delta-shaped barrel bridge with Côtes de Bethune striping, a thermally blued central brace, a heat-blued titanium balance wheel weighted with white gold, a silicon escape wheel, and the para-chute shock system. The watch comes on a brown alligator strap with a polished titanium pin buckle.

The DB25xs Sand Winds is part of the permanent collection and retails for CHF 70,000. See more on the De Bethune website.

IAT FEATURE / Nomos Glashütte: In House Or Nothing

Yesterday, I published a long-form article on NOMOS Glashütte that a lot of you liked a lot. I’m leaving a link here for it again in case you missed it.

⏲️End links

A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting

• Your computer screen might be where you interact with Claude or ChatGPT, but it’s not where those AI models do their work. For that, look to the massive data centers that house training and cloud-compute operations. It’s a funny thing: The more people learn about AI and its environmental costs (not to mention the prognostications of the companies whose fortunes rest on it), the more they don’t want those data centers anywhere near them. In a recent Gallup poll, 71% of Americans oppose data center construction in their area; now, J.J. Anselmi talks to folks around the country who are fighting against such construction.

• For Texas Highways, Ian Dille reports on the aftermath of the flooding in Kerr County, Texas in the wee hours of July 4th, 2025, a natural disaster that claimed the lives of 119 people. Dille has been making periodic reporting trips to the area since the flood. He observes that while property devastation can be repaired and homes can be rebuilt, it’s much harder to come to terms with the lives lost in a horrific weather event.

• Teenager Ananya Rao was not driving when she was badly injured and her friend Sophia Lekiachvili was killed in a car crash. A third friend, Hannah Hackmeyer, was behind the wheel. But while Hannah isn’t going to prison, Rao’s parents, who hosted parties where underage drinking occurred, might be incarcerated for Sophia’s death. Thomas Lake tells a complicated story about culpability in the Atlanta suburbs.

👀Watch this

One video you have to watch today

One of the things I hate the most about concerts these days is that every single person has their phone out, recording the show, so all you see is a sea of screens. But… if people weren’t recording you wouldn’t see the kickass show Jack White had in my hometown of Zagreb two days ago.

Thanks for reading,
Vuk