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# Favre Leuba Recuts the Chief Tourbillon With a Hand-Engraved Blue Guilloché Dial
- URL: https://www.itsabouttime.email/favre-leuba-recuts-the-chief-tourbillon-with-a-hand-engraved-blue-guilloche-dial/
- Published: 2026-11-03T13:39:42.000Z
- Updated: 2026-11-03T13:39:42.000Z
- Author: Vuk Radic
- Tags: News

Favre Leuba’s Chief Tourbillon was one of the better releases of 2025 that I'm not sure got the love it should have: a steel tourbillon from a revived brand that felt like serious watchmaking rather than a logo on a bought-in movement. The Chief is the brand’s cushion-cased sports line, and the tourbillon version has a calibre reworked by Jean-François Mojon, whose Chronode workshop has built movements for MB&F, Czapek and Hermès. This second edition keeps that cool movement and replaces the dial with blue barleycorn guilloché cut by hand. 

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-2.png)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-3.png)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-4.png)

The steel case is 41mm wide and 11.45mm thick, with brushed and polished surfaces alternating across the cushion shape. There’s a curved sapphire crystal up front and a sapphire caseback. It's a big watch, and I wish they could have made it just a bit thinner. Water resistance is 100 meters.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-5.jpg)

The barleycorn pattern radiates out from the center, engraved on a rose engine lathe built in the late 1800s. Each dial takes between five and six hours. Hand-cut blue guilloché is the kind of thing photos never quite capture, because the texture changes with every angle. The applied indices are rhodium-plated and polished, and the brushed hour and minute hands have a sandblasted groove down the middle. Both have Super-LumiNova C1 X1, which glows blue. Lume on a guilloché tourbillon is unusual, but this is a sports case, so it works. At six o’clock the tourbillon bridge is shaped like an hourglass, the Favre Leuba emblem, and it also holds the seconds track and a flame-blued seconds hand. 

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-6.jpg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-7.jpg)

The movement is calibre FL T01, a manual-wind tourbillon based on the Chronode C502\. It runs at 3Hz, has 23 jewels and offers 60 hours of power reserve. The cage is 14.85mm across and turns once a minute. The bridge is brushed horizontally on top and circular-grained on its edge. Through the back you can see Geneva stripes, an anthracite finish, blue screws and an hourglass in spiral relief over a laser-engraved background. The watch comes on an integrated steel bracelet with brushed H-shaped outer links, polished center links and a folding clasp, plus a blue FKM rubber strap with a pin buckle. Swapping between them is tool-free.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/98/15/981552fd-1b67-4d3c-8ad7-fc38a52bf9fb/content/images/2026/11/favre-leuba-chief-8.jpg)

The Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Guilloché Dial is limited to 25 pieces and it's priced at €30,000\. See more [on the Favre Leuba website](https://www.favreleuba.com/chief-tourbillon-00-20103-150-02-200?ref=itsabouttime.email).